DeSoto Falls & Desoto State Park, Alabama

34°32'56.99"N
85°35'24.15"W
About 100 miles NE of Birmingham

Alabama seems obsessed with the explorer Hernando DeSoto. His name is on signs, plaques, and places. Undoubtedly, he would be pleased. He was ruthless, cruel and had a huge ego--which is why he succeeded. The journey through Alabama must have been largely unpleasant for his companions--endless travel, deprivation, illness, and a difficult boss. Perhaps a more benevolent pioneer--or better, a Native American--should have given their name to the lovely falls and park on Lookout Mountain.

When we visited DeSoto Falls last summer, the water flow was disappointingly low. However, the Huntsville Cave Rescue Unit was setting up a Tyrolean traverse above the falls as a fundraiser. We spent an hour watching the preparations, a few heart-stopping test rides, and, finally, the stream of thrill seekers. As usual, we enjoyed watching and listening to the audience of HCRU members and family sprinkled with a few tourists. In the fall, bountiful rain kept our focus on the water. Now it is difficult to imagine the attitude of Arthur Miller, who, back in the 1920's, looked at this gorgeous spot and thought of generating electricity. He is responsible for the dam above the falls. Although I'm sure the women of Fort Payne were grateful to have power for their irons every Thursday afternoon, I long to see the falls in its natural state.

DeSoto State Park has a lodge, camping, and hiking and biking trails. We like to take the Azalea Cascade Boardwalk and then wander through the maze of trails that branch out from there. (A map is available at the store along the main road.) We always walk down to Indian Falls, as well. In a typical juxtaposition for Alabama, the trail to this pretty little spot circles around the park's sewage treatment plant.

Little River Canyon, Alabama

34°21'8.18"N
85°40'27.52"W
About 86 miles NE of Birmingham

We happened on Little River Canyon by accident a decade or so ago while on a Sunday drive to Desoto State Park. The canyon's beauty took our breath away. We couldn't believe we'd never heard of it. Our visit on a misty Sunday morning last fall was a sweet end to a few days on Lookout Mountain.

The National Park Service has remedied the potholes, crumbling cement, and wrecked cars on the cliff that slightly soured our first impression. We met a friendly photographer at Little River Falls near the north end of the reserve. He showed us his portfolio, including a bob cat he'd seen on the canyon rim. In summer the falls is crowded with swimmers.

I heard a rumor that large alligator gar can be seen swimming in the pools below. I have checked at every overlook on every visit, with no success. We did see some deer, turkeys, and many other birds. We spent some time watching doves (or pigeons?) swirling off the cliffs into a few wispy cloudlets.

At one of the overlooks we were puzzled by crime scene tape strung among the trees. Later we read that a pickup truck with a body had been spotted on the cliff below that morning. That makes our enjoyment of the scenery seem frivolous somehow.

There are picnic tables at several spots along the main road. There is a hiking trail to the bottom of the canyon which we have never ventured on. The Little River is very popular for kayaking.

Update 04-18-2007: An article by Jennifer Bacchus indicates that Jacksonville State will build a field school in the park that would be "a place where students and professors could study and do experiments, a lab facility with offices for the park officials and room for visitors to learn about Little River Canyon and the ecology of Northeast Alabama."

Train Depot, Stevenson, Alabama

34°52'7.00"N
85°50'22.00"W
About 107 miles NE of Birmingham

Prompted by an entry in Alabama Off the Beaten Path, we visited Stevenson on our way to Russell Cave. The depot houses a museum of local history that we spent an enjoyable hour browsing through. The attendant graciously narrated our tour through each room, bringing the culture of the area alive. She explained that the stuffed eagle was electrocuted just outside of town and that the Christmas tree of kitchen gadgets stayed up year round because it turned out to be the best way to display them. She also showed us the Christmas decorations she was sorting through, explaining how she'd stretched the museum's meager budget at after-Christmas sales. My favorite exhibit was the room hung with a long series of class photos from the high school. Each included the staff, so I watched the secretary and principal as they aged and the students documented the march of fashion.

Next to the depot is the former hotel, currently hosting city offices. Only the truly exhausted must have slept well so few inches away from the tracks.

Stevenson Depot Days are held every year in June. And the depot is decorated annually for the winter holidays.

When we go back, we will look for Fort Harker and Little Brick.

Calendar Note: Artrain USA April 5-10, 2007

Calera, Alabama

The Artrain USA, an art museum in a train, will be at the Heart of Dixie Railroad Museum. Presented by the Academy of Fine Arts of Shelby County, the featured exhibit is Native Views: Influences of Modern Culture. (Not open Easter Sunday.) We do plan to visit this.

Calendar Note: North Alabama Birding Festival May 4-6, 2007

Decatur, Alabama

Picked up a brochure for this activities when we visited Natural Bridge. There will be talks, classes, field trips and an expo. Most require pre-registration--except for the expo at Rhodes Ferry Park, which is open to the public and free. Much as I would love to, I can't go because of end-of-the-year concerts at work. If you go, please let me know what it is like.

Flava Restaurant, Greensboro, Alabama

About 72 miles SW of Birmingham
905 Tuscaloosa Street
334-624-4547

We were passing through Greensboro at 2 pm, desperate for a bite to eat. We looped past the fast food places and through downtown a couple of times before deciding to stop at this tiny diner. As we entered, an older gentleman at one of the tables directed our attention to the daily specials on a white board. The 'meat & two vegetables' ($4.99) selections, which included chitterlings and neckbone, perked our interest. Shortly after sitting at one of the three or four tables, we were brought glasses of really flavorful tea. We had the whiting & fries, one of the daily specials ($3.50), and a bacon cheeseburger ($3.29). As we waited for our order, we watched a stream of take-out customers and studied the details of the menu. Flava offers many items we would love to try: salmon biscuits and bologna biscuits for breakfast, a pork chop sandwich, not to mention the chitterlings and neckbone. The two large fillets of whiting, lightly breaded with cornmeal and fries, were tender and tasty. The bacon cheeseburger was just like homemade--fresh, juicy, wonderful. The service was friendly, attentive, and efficient. Next time we are near Greensboro, we will stop by Flava to sample more.

Russell Cave National Monument, Alabama

34 deg 58' 46.39" N
85 deg 48' 34.68"W
About 5.8 miles NW of Bridgeport

Nestled in Doran's Cove in the Appalachian foothills up against the Tennessee border, Russell Cave National Monument had few visitors when we dropped by last fall. It seems to have been more popular with prehistoric Americans. The cave has evidence of 10,000 years of human occupation. A free ranger-guided tour goes over the site of an extensive excavation conducted jointly by the Smithsonian Institution and National Geographic in the 1950's. There are fine exhibits and a movie in the visitor center, but I preferred the booklet we purchased reprinting an article from the October, 1956 National Geographic Magazine.

There are picnic tables at the visitor center with a large open area that hosts a Native American Festival in May. There is also a nature walk that is a stop on the North Alabama Birding Trail.

The ranger that gave our tour through the cave shelter was from Orme, Tennessee, just up the valley. She said that when there is flooding along the stream that comes to the surface in the park and flows into the cave, the rangers are always surprised by the quantity and variety of debris from Orme that ends up in the cave. We decided to slip briefly into another state to investigate. Orme is a former railroad town with little to offer the tourist beyond a picturesque train station. We didn't mind. We were very satisfied to soak up the intense fall colors all along the valley.

Bibb County Glades, Alabama

33° 3'33.03"N
87° 2'4.14"W
About 35 miles southwest of Birmingham

Have you ever seen a U-Haul truck with the Alabama pink root graphic? It depicts a unique biological community along the Little Cahaba River discovered in 1992 by biologist Jim Allison. These dolomite glades are home to many rare plants, eight of which grow nowhere else in the world. The Nature Conservancy's Nancy Stiles Freeland Bibb County Glades Preserve encompasses 480 acres of the Ketona glade ecosystem and the remains of the Brighthope Furnace. It is a short walk from the gate across the entrance road to the river, which is a nice spot for a picnic. (There are no facilities.)

Brighthope (or Little Cahaba) Furnace was built by William Phineas Browne to provide iron for the Confederacy. It was destroyed by the Union army. Dr. James Day was kind enough to provide us with a copy of his doctoral thesis "'Diamonds in the Rough': A History of Alabama's Cahaba Coal Field," which recounts Mr. & Mrs. Browne's struggles to develop their coal and iron businesses. Rhonda Ellison's book, Bibb County, Alabama: The First Hundred Years, gives a description of the dam and furnace site (pg 101). We will try to find evidence of both on our next visit.

Birmingham Museum of Art, Alabama

I'm always amazed at how many residents of Birmingham and Alabama (and probably anywhere) are unaware of the myriad places in their neighborhood that are worth visiting. Natives tend to stick to the familiar. Transplants moan about being in a cultural backwater. Recently we did our Showcase Recital at Boutwell Auditorium. We gave directions using the Birmingham Museum of Art as a landmark--and many didn't know the place. What a shame! The Birmingham Museum of Art is definitely a regional treasure. It has a world-class Wedgewood collection, which prompted my then 5-year-old son to comment that this museum had "way too many dishes". He was soon won back by the display of samurai weaponry.
Personally, I am fascinated by native American quillworking. Before Europeans traded for beads, native American women used dyed porcupine quills to decorate clothing. BMA has some nice examples--I think better even than the Denver art museum.
We usually plan our visits around the special exhibitions. The museum is open every day except Monday and a few holidays. Admission is free, with a donation box at the entrance. Parking is free (after validation) in the museum's lot off of 21st Street.

Dual Destiny Monument, Double Springs, Alabama

34 deg 8' 47.23"N
87 deg 24' 8.01"W
About 55 miles NW of Birmingham

We were once again lead by a post on Google Earth to the heart of Double Springs, county seat of the 'Free State of Winston'. This monument, with the Winston County courthouse in the background, is moving testimony to the pain of civil war.

Kinlock Falls, Bankhead National Forest, Alabama

34° 18' 31" N
87° 30' 06"W
About 68 mi NW of Birmingham

Kinlock Falls is along Hubbard Creek in the Bankhead National Forest. It is in the southwest corner of Lawrence County. We chose to visit based on Indiana Joe's post on Google Earth. It was very cold when we visited, with long icicles hanging over the water. Even so, we could imagine relief from summer heat in an old fashioned swimming hole. How fun to slide down the falls!

After some research, we will go back to explore the ruins around this monument just beyond the falls. The area appears to have some interesting stories to tell!