DeSoto Falls & Desoto State Park, Alabama

34°32'56.99"N
85°35'24.15"W
About 100 miles NE of Birmingham

Alabama seems obsessed with the explorer Hernando DeSoto. His name is on signs, plaques, and places. Undoubtedly, he would be pleased. He was ruthless, cruel and had a huge ego--which is why he succeeded. The journey through Alabama must have been largely unpleasant for his companions--endless travel, deprivation, illness, and a difficult boss. Perhaps a more benevolent pioneer--or better, a Native American--should have given their name to the lovely falls and park on Lookout Mountain.

When we visited DeSoto Falls last summer, the water flow was disappointingly low. However, the Huntsville Cave Rescue Unit was setting up a Tyrolean traverse above the falls as a fundraiser. We spent an hour watching the preparations, a few heart-stopping test rides, and, finally, the stream of thrill seekers. As usual, we enjoyed watching and listening to the audience of HCRU members and family sprinkled with a few tourists. In the fall, bountiful rain kept our focus on the water. Now it is difficult to imagine the attitude of Arthur Miller, who, back in the 1920's, looked at this gorgeous spot and thought of generating electricity. He is responsible for the dam above the falls. Although I'm sure the women of Fort Payne were grateful to have power for their irons every Thursday afternoon, I long to see the falls in its natural state.

DeSoto State Park has a lodge, camping, and hiking and biking trails. We like to take the Azalea Cascade Boardwalk and then wander through the maze of trails that branch out from there. (A map is available at the store along the main road.) We always walk down to Indian Falls, as well. In a typical juxtaposition for Alabama, the trail to this pretty little spot circles around the park's sewage treatment plant.